Remember those Chance cards in Monopoly (the ones that every other player seems to draw more than I do), including the wonderful "Bank Error in Your Favor: Collect $$ from the Bank"? Yeah, well life just made up for my monopoly curse in a major way.
A bit of backstory: since Matt is impossible to shop for (all i really want is biking related, and thus too specific and expensive usually), my folks decided to buy Lia and I a night in a nice hotel while on our little trip as a birthday/graduation present. We decided to use this generous offer to cover 2 nights at the Koh Chang luxury resort, Aana. Their funding limit got us 2 nights in the "Delux" room, which is the cheapest one available, and we decided to treat ourselves to a 3rd night on our own dollar.
And then Fate invervened: we showed up at the resort, which exceeded our expectations from the start, and were promptly shown to a Villa with a private balcony replete with a jacuzzi. I kid you not.
Needless to say, all of our grand plans to explore the island (which is really, really beautiful) quickly changed to exclude most of the activities not contained within the "relax at the resort in our private jacuzzi" heading.
Thank you Mom & Dad, and thank you Fate. You've all truly outdone yourselves this time.
ps: Pictures of Myanmar are coming, we promise, but connections and computers are frustratingly slow on the island. The pictures will be worth the wait, we promise.
Saturday, December 5, 2009
Monday, November 23, 2009
Burma Knows Temples
We have been in Southeast Asia for almost 13 weeks now. We have seen temples. We have seen Buddhas. In fact, we have seen so many temples that they are almost becoming commonplace, and now we don'talways stop and stare, but rather admire from afar, and continue on our way.
BUT. We had not yet been to Burma. BURMA knows temples.
Bagan - a flat deserty land with hundreds upon hundreds of brick red temples littering the landscape. If you are lucky (and we were lucky)the keymaster (random man living next to the temple) will show you how to climb up tiny bat filled tunnels to the top. The best part - it's completely DIY - it's as though Matt and I on our 80 year old beachcruiser bikes, fighting the sandy goat trails from temple to temple, were the first people to discover Bagan.
Sagaing - a short (and rather hectic) motorbike ride out of Mandalay, we were in another world - one where red and pink robes (pink is for the nuns) are the outfit of choice, and you can walk barefoot on shady, leafy paths to temples high above the smoggy city air. If I knew how to meditate, I would have. A lot.
A few other interesting factoids about our Burma experience thus far:
1. It is awesome.
2. Instead of giving change, which no one EVER has, you might get, oh I don' t know, a packet of instant coffee mix. Or mints.
3. People here call Matt "beautiful" a lot. It's rather disconcerting...
4. We are apparently minor celebrities here? SO far just today, we took pictures with maybe 20 different Burmese people, including 5 monks, at their request.
5. We ate the best chapatis I have ever had just now, including mutton curry and dahl, for $1.60.
While there is sadness here, there is also joy and light, and the people are amazing - we have met tons of locals and NO travelers...strange, and refreshing, and only in Burma.
BUT. We had not yet been to Burma. BURMA knows temples.
Bagan - a flat deserty land with hundreds upon hundreds of brick red temples littering the landscape. If you are lucky (and we were lucky)the keymaster (random man living next to the temple) will show you how to climb up tiny bat filled tunnels to the top. The best part - it's completely DIY - it's as though Matt and I on our 80 year old beachcruiser bikes, fighting the sandy goat trails from temple to temple, were the first people to discover Bagan.
Sagaing - a short (and rather hectic) motorbike ride out of Mandalay, we were in another world - one where red and pink robes (pink is for the nuns) are the outfit of choice, and you can walk barefoot on shady, leafy paths to temples high above the smoggy city air. If I knew how to meditate, I would have. A lot.
A few other interesting factoids about our Burma experience thus far:
1. It is awesome.
2. Instead of giving change, which no one EVER has, you might get, oh I don' t know, a packet of instant coffee mix. Or mints.
3. People here call Matt "beautiful" a lot. It's rather disconcerting...
4. We are apparently minor celebrities here? SO far just today, we took pictures with maybe 20 different Burmese people, including 5 monks, at their request.
5. We ate the best chapatis I have ever had just now, including mutton curry and dahl, for $1.60.
While there is sadness here, there is also joy and light, and the people are amazing - we have met tons of locals and NO travelers...strange, and refreshing, and only in Burma.
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
Well, we're officially in Myanmar (country #7!), and Matt's 2 pairs of underwear have held up admirably.
This is a country like no other that we've visited. Aside from the government-imposed restrictions on internet access (that's why this post is being copied & pasted by my mom - Thanks Pam!), already a few things are abundantly clear.
1) Other SE Asian countries may like their temples, but Myanmar LOVES it's temples. We must have seen 100+ temples in the last 12 weeks (has it really been that long? wow.), but nothing I've ever seen compares to the Shwedagon Temple in Yangon (do a google search for it, it's amazing). It's got something like 1800 carats of diamonds adorning it's "hti" (top spire), and is said to be covered in more gold than is contained in all of the vaults in England. Burmese people are known to exaggerate, but if you saw it you might actually believe this one.
2) The people here are amazing. We've only been here a few days, but already we've met more friendly, helpful people than we could have ever expected. Maybe it's just because there aren't that many other westerners who come here, but the locals seem genuinely excited to see you and greet you with a friendly "Min-ga-la-ba" (hello) and a big, red, betel-stained smile. On our first day in Yangon, I (Matt) wasn't feeling great and went back to rest at our hotel, and almost immediately a local English teacher approached Lia and took her on an all-day tour of some of the less well known and harder to reach sights of the city. Anywhere else you'd be suspicious, but here such an encounter seems genuinely motivated by good-natured friendliness. We also spent a day with a local English class, where we were peppered with questions by young Burmese kids spending their Sunday voluntarily attending classes, and were treated to far too much food by our hosts:
first the abbot at the monastery fed us, then we were taken back to the teacher's home and her family fed us. This is all in addition to the breakfast we'd had at the hostel, and all consumed before 11am!
3) Men here wear skirts. Well, they're actually called "Lungyi's", but they look like skirts. As further evidence of the Burmese people's honesty, since Lungyi's have no pockets people here actually walk around with their wallets, car keys, or just straight-up wads of cash hanging out of waist of their lungyi's and don't give a second thought to at being stolen.
4) Matt looks silly wearing a Lungyi.
That's all for now. We'll try to keep updating the blog via Pam in the future as the circumstances warrant.
This is a country like no other that we've visited. Aside from the government-imposed restrictions on internet access (that's why this post is being copied & pasted by my mom - Thanks Pam!), already a few things are abundantly clear.
1) Other SE Asian countries may like their temples, but Myanmar LOVES it's temples. We must have seen 100+ temples in the last 12 weeks (has it really been that long? wow.), but nothing I've ever seen compares to the Shwedagon Temple in Yangon (do a google search for it, it's amazing). It's got something like 1800 carats of diamonds adorning it's "hti" (top spire), and is said to be covered in more gold than is contained in all of the vaults in England. Burmese people are known to exaggerate, but if you saw it you might actually believe this one.
2) The people here are amazing. We've only been here a few days, but already we've met more friendly, helpful people than we could have ever expected. Maybe it's just because there aren't that many other westerners who come here, but the locals seem genuinely excited to see you and greet you with a friendly "Min-ga-la-ba" (hello) and a big, red, betel-stained smile. On our first day in Yangon, I (Matt) wasn't feeling great and went back to rest at our hotel, and almost immediately a local English teacher approached Lia and took her on an all-day tour of some of the less well known and harder to reach sights of the city. Anywhere else you'd be suspicious, but here such an encounter seems genuinely motivated by good-natured friendliness. We also spent a day with a local English class, where we were peppered with questions by young Burmese kids spending their Sunday voluntarily attending classes, and were treated to far too much food by our hosts:
first the abbot at the monastery fed us, then we were taken back to the teacher's home and her family fed us. This is all in addition to the breakfast we'd had at the hostel, and all consumed before 11am!
3) Men here wear skirts. Well, they're actually called "Lungyi's", but they look like skirts. As further evidence of the Burmese people's honesty, since Lungyi's have no pockets people here actually walk around with their wallets, car keys, or just straight-up wads of cash hanging out of waist of their lungyi's and don't give a second thought to at being stolen.
4) Matt looks silly wearing a Lungyi.
That's all for now. We'll try to keep updating the blog via Pam in the future as the circumstances warrant.
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Encounters of the Monk Kind
Why are monks so fascinating to Westerners? I don't know. But they are. In Luang Prabang, the Buddhist heart of Laos, monks are treated as minor celebrities, both by tourists (who can get out of hand with the picture taking papparazzi style, unfortunately) and by the locals alike. The monks, often only 12 years old or younger, seem somehow larger than life...a vision in orange.
While they seem as though they come from another world, they don't. And while we all know this, it's still so strange to see monks doing things that the normal plebeians of the world also like to do. Here are some interesting monk activities, which I like to call "Encounters of the Monk Kind":
- Monks writing emails at the internet cafe (and repeatedly asking me how to spell words like "capital")
- Monks riding motorbikes (usually side saddle on the back)
- Monks smoking cigarettes
- Monks videotaping various tourist sights
- Monks doing heavy lifting for various temple improvement projects
- Monks using payphones (mom, take me home, I've had enough of this eating twice a day business)
- Monks taking pictures (of us!)
- Monks planting trees
- Monks taking a bath in the hotsprings
- Monks doing laundry (so easy when you only have one garment!)
- Monks riding the bus wearing ski hats with a poof on top
- Monks shopping at the market for silver goods (or, more likely, just looking)
- Monks carrying umbrellas to block out the sun (they have no hair to protect their heads!)
- Monks giving out soymilk to tourists (huh?)
As simple as these activities are, they become somehow magical and ethereal when a Buddhist monk is doing them. Makes us want to sell all our earthly possessions and join a monastery.
We left Laos today and are in Bangkok, spending the night and taking a flight out in the morning for Yangon, in Myanmar. I'm not sure how often we'll be able to update the blog (if at all...they government blocks blogger I believe) but we'll do our best. If it's anything like Laos, we'll be extremely happy....
While they seem as though they come from another world, they don't. And while we all know this, it's still so strange to see monks doing things that the normal plebeians of the world also like to do. Here are some interesting monk activities, which I like to call "Encounters of the Monk Kind":
- Monks writing emails at the internet cafe (and repeatedly asking me how to spell words like "capital")
- Monks riding motorbikes (usually side saddle on the back)
- Monks smoking cigarettes
- Monks videotaping various tourist sights
- Monks doing heavy lifting for various temple improvement projects
- Monks using payphones (mom, take me home, I've had enough of this eating twice a day business)
- Monks taking pictures (of us!)
- Monks planting trees
- Monks taking a bath in the hotsprings
- Monks doing laundry (so easy when you only have one garment!)
- Monks riding the bus wearing ski hats with a poof on top
- Monks shopping at the market for silver goods (or, more likely, just looking)
- Monks carrying umbrellas to block out the sun (they have no hair to protect their heads!)
- Monks giving out soymilk to tourists (huh?)
As simple as these activities are, they become somehow magical and ethereal when a Buddhist monk is doing them. Makes us want to sell all our earthly possessions and join a monastery.
We left Laos today and are in Bangkok, spending the night and taking a flight out in the morning for Yangon, in Myanmar. I'm not sure how often we'll be able to update the blog (if at all...they government blocks blogger I believe) but we'll do our best. If it's anything like Laos, we'll be extremely happy....
Monday, November 9, 2009
Laos, now in picture format!
A few pictures to help you all visualize what we've been up to here in Laos the last few days.
First, Lia learned how to ride a scooter. She's a natural.
Next, on to the capital city of Vienetiane. Our expectations had been lowered substantially by less than glowing reviews from other travellers, but we turned out to really enjoy biking around the city, having a unique massage experience (see below), and visiting a golden temple that impressed even two people with serious "wat fatigue."
Finally, on to Viang Vieng. Most come for the booze-centric tubing, but we had a great day exploring some amazing caves and Matt somehow summoned the nerve to dive headfirst from a 15meter tree limb into a truly idylic aquamarine bend in a river. (That's me, above the topmost limb. Lia describes me as a "jumping gibbon," which I quite like, actually.)
The Vientiane Massage Story
Are all massages made the same? Are all saunas made the same? Can YOU picture yourself getting a massage in a monastery compound? After you read this story, you will have all the answers. It even has a happy ending (tee hee).
It was a typical massage quest on a relaxed day in Vientiane, Laos, the quiet capital city of the country. We spent a day there before heading further North, and, for lack of anything more enticing to do, decided to look for a massage.
"Hey, check out my book, it says you can get a massage at this temple, " said Jeni.
"Really? AT the temple? With monks everywhere?" asked Lia.
This was a mystery we just couldn't resist, so we headed off on our rickety rented beach cruisers for the mysterious massage/sauna/prayer temple complex. After pedaling for a while, we reached a sandy road/path (there are many of these in Laos) off a main paved road. There was a wat-like archway at the front of the path.
Inside the complex, monks were going about their daily business. Sweeping, chanting, drying the ubiquitous bright orange robes in the sun. Smoking a cigarette near the potted plants (why is it always so strange to see Monks doing things that everyone else does? I'll never know). We asked them:
"Sauna? Massage?" Nods. Smiles. Points.
"Black hut," he says.
"Khawp Jai!" we say, and head off down a path. After pedaling a little while through the sand and lush greenery, and more robes drying, we come to a hut. It is, in fact, black from the huge stream of smoke/steam pouring up from a steel barrel below, opened on the side. It is frothing a pungent herbing mixture.
We say hello to the men up above on a deck. We are handed sarongs of suspect cleanliness and told to change. Due to the language barrier, it's unclear how much we are supposed to disrobe. We ask ourselves, "Can one really be semi-naked in a monastery? Really?" We decide...yes.
We are all ushered into a tiny room that is filled, and i mean FILLED with steam from the barrel below. It's so hot! It's blinding! We can't see anything so run into each other, coughing and sputtering. Within minutes, we are soaked.
We emerge into what before was the Laos heat and now feels like aircon. We drink salty hot water and stew in our own sweat for the requisite 15 minutes before being ushered to massage, um, tables, on a little veranda. I had to control my thoughts to avoid thinking about how many sweaty bodies had lay where I was about to put my body.
We are pummeled and punched and cracked (every vertebra, baby) until we are sweaty balls of jelly, while our masseurs laugh and tell jokes to each other in Lao. Sound awesome? It was!
We biked home in relaxed bliss, waving to the monks on our way out. Not your everyday spa experience!
It was a typical massage quest on a relaxed day in Vientiane, Laos, the quiet capital city of the country. We spent a day there before heading further North, and, for lack of anything more enticing to do, decided to look for a massage.
"Hey, check out my book, it says you can get a massage at this temple, " said Jeni.
"Really? AT the temple? With monks everywhere?" asked Lia.
This was a mystery we just couldn't resist, so we headed off on our rickety rented beach cruisers for the mysterious massage/sauna/prayer temple complex. After pedaling for a while, we reached a sandy road/path (there are many of these in Laos) off a main paved road. There was a wat-like archway at the front of the path.
Inside the complex, monks were going about their daily business. Sweeping, chanting, drying the ubiquitous bright orange robes in the sun. Smoking a cigarette near the potted plants (why is it always so strange to see Monks doing things that everyone else does? I'll never know). We asked them:
"Sauna? Massage?" Nods. Smiles. Points.
"Black hut," he says.
"Khawp Jai!" we say, and head off down a path. After pedaling a little while through the sand and lush greenery, and more robes drying, we come to a hut. It is, in fact, black from the huge stream of smoke/steam pouring up from a steel barrel below, opened on the side. It is frothing a pungent herbing mixture.
We say hello to the men up above on a deck. We are handed sarongs of suspect cleanliness and told to change. Due to the language barrier, it's unclear how much we are supposed to disrobe. We ask ourselves, "Can one really be semi-naked in a monastery? Really?" We decide...yes.
We are all ushered into a tiny room that is filled, and i mean FILLED with steam from the barrel below. It's so hot! It's blinding! We can't see anything so run into each other, coughing and sputtering. Within minutes, we are soaked.
We emerge into what before was the Laos heat and now feels like aircon. We drink salty hot water and stew in our own sweat for the requisite 15 minutes before being ushered to massage, um, tables, on a little veranda. I had to control my thoughts to avoid thinking about how many sweaty bodies had lay where I was about to put my body.
We are pummeled and punched and cracked (every vertebra, baby) until we are sweaty balls of jelly, while our masseurs laugh and tell jokes to each other in Lao. Sound awesome? It was!
We biked home in relaxed bliss, waving to the monks on our way out. Not your everyday spa experience!
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
Laos = Same same, but different....
There are many images that come to mind when thinking about Southeast Asia: dust, bright colors, motorbikes, smiles, water, rice paddies, animals, frenzy, heat etc. Laos has all these things, but different.
First, the water: We spent 4 days on Don Det, an island smack in the middle of the Mekong. The Mekong is different from other water we've swam in so far because it's opaque and murky, really wide, and dotted with Waterfalls. We spent some time tubing down (3 hours to go 4 km?) and eventually got used to the fact that we couldn't see our limbs one inch beneath the water. Plus, some guy on a boat followed us and sold us beer as we went, so what could be better than that?
Second, the colors: While other southeast asian countries we've traveled in bring to mind a mishmash of different colors all mixed together, Laos is green. SO very green. Green and brown. Allllll shades of green - emerald and lime, kelly green and all the rest. Other colors get muted by the green. It's wonderful.
Third, frenzy....wait, what Frenzy??? I've never been so relaxed EVER...Laos is distinctly live and let live, slow-paced (we regularly wait 1 hour for food in restaurants, you'd think we'd learn...) and we love it.
Fourth, heat: So not hot. Remember Hanoi? Borneo? Yeah, Laos isn't even close to hot like that. We just spent 3 days motorbiking around the Bolaven Plateau in the South...I even had to wear a sweater. A sweater!!!
Five, the animals: There are as many animals as people here...and they are, well, happy! Plus, its piglet season on the Bolaven Plateau.
Six, the smiles: There are so many. EVERY child we passed on our motorbike waved and yelled a hearty "Sabaidee!" and we yelled back and waved until our arms hurt.
Seven, the motorbikes: One difference here...in other countries, Matt pilots the bike - here, I do :) For part of the time at least.
Off to Vientiane tonight and then Northward from there....Myanmar in 9 days!
First, the water: We spent 4 days on Don Det, an island smack in the middle of the Mekong. The Mekong is different from other water we've swam in so far because it's opaque and murky, really wide, and dotted with Waterfalls. We spent some time tubing down (3 hours to go 4 km?) and eventually got used to the fact that we couldn't see our limbs one inch beneath the water. Plus, some guy on a boat followed us and sold us beer as we went, so what could be better than that?
Second, the colors: While other southeast asian countries we've traveled in bring to mind a mishmash of different colors all mixed together, Laos is green. SO very green. Green and brown. Allllll shades of green - emerald and lime, kelly green and all the rest. Other colors get muted by the green. It's wonderful.
Third, frenzy....wait, what Frenzy??? I've never been so relaxed EVER...Laos is distinctly live and let live, slow-paced (we regularly wait 1 hour for food in restaurants, you'd think we'd learn...) and we love it.
Fourth, heat: So not hot. Remember Hanoi? Borneo? Yeah, Laos isn't even close to hot like that. We just spent 3 days motorbiking around the Bolaven Plateau in the South...I even had to wear a sweater. A sweater!!!
Five, the animals: There are as many animals as people here...and they are, well, happy! Plus, its piglet season on the Bolaven Plateau.
Six, the smiles: There are so many. EVERY child we passed on our motorbike waved and yelled a hearty "Sabaidee!" and we yelled back and waved until our arms hurt.
Seven, the motorbikes: One difference here...in other countries, Matt pilots the bike - here, I do :) For part of the time at least.
Off to Vientiane tonight and then Northward from there....Myanmar in 9 days!
Monday, October 26, 2009
pictures!
We promised a few pictures of our recent adventures, so here you go: Sunset over Angkor Wat, Angkor Wat in the morning, the tree-covered ruins of Ta Phrom, Lia spinning a prayer wheel at a Chinese Buddhist temple in Singapore, the Probocis monkey of Borneo (replete with his ridiculous nose), and our ridiculous view from our hotel on Tioman Island in Malaysia.
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Cambodia., remembering.
Cambodia, despite being a 1.5 hour flight from Malaysia, is worlds apart. It's dirtier, more hectic, poorer, more vibrant, but also sadder.
The first night we were here, I became convinced that our guesthouse was haunted. Earlier, in Thailand, I read a book called "First They Killed My Father," and as is evident from the title, it was a real tear jerker. But really, I cried. A lot.
And when we got to Phnom Penh, and into our guesthouse that looks like it was probably the residence of a wealthy family here before the Khmer Rouge's takeover, I couldn't help but feel their presence. In the morning I was sheepish - I don't believe in ghosts! But I couldn't shake it. The memory of the war and brutality is palpable.
It probably didn't help that we went to the Tuol Streng prison museum later that day. I have never seen a place that so blatantly highlights the darkest side of humanity; I could feel it.
Walking around the streets, it's easy to see the remnants of a brutal past here - the amputees, the poverty, the dilapidated buildings. Anyone over 30 has memories of the war. And yet, people smile, they are friendly, they are trying to move on. Inspiring and heart-wrenching all at the same time.
The first night we were here, I became convinced that our guesthouse was haunted. Earlier, in Thailand, I read a book called "First They Killed My Father," and as is evident from the title, it was a real tear jerker. But really, I cried. A lot.
And when we got to Phnom Penh, and into our guesthouse that looks like it was probably the residence of a wealthy family here before the Khmer Rouge's takeover, I couldn't help but feel their presence. In the morning I was sheepish - I don't believe in ghosts! But I couldn't shake it. The memory of the war and brutality is palpable.
It probably didn't help that we went to the Tuol Streng prison museum later that day. I have never seen a place that so blatantly highlights the darkest side of humanity; I could feel it.
Walking around the streets, it's easy to see the remnants of a brutal past here - the amputees, the poverty, the dilapidated buildings. Anyone over 30 has memories of the war. And yet, people smile, they are friendly, they are trying to move on. Inspiring and heart-wrenching all at the same time.
Sunday, October 18, 2009
To country #5...
Cambodia!
Look for a picture post from us in the next few days...from big noses in Borneo to a picture perfect paradise island, we've got some good stuff to show off :)
Look for a picture post from us in the next few days...from big noses in Borneo to a picture perfect paradise island, we've got some good stuff to show off :)
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
The Burma Visa Saga
After failing to obtain our Burma visas in Singapore and being informed that the process is quicker in Kuala Lumpur (shout-out to Jake Izenberg!), Lia and I arrived at the Burma/Myanmar embassy in KL at 8:30am, thinking the embassy opened at 9. Turns out the embassy "opens" at 9:30.
The guy shows up at about 10.
A crowd of 6 people have gathered by this point. The crowd does not respect the idea of a "line." A small Malaysian woman pushes in front of us. An Indian man does the same, but gives way when I pipe up and inform him of our 1-hour wait.
We fill out the forms, get copies of the necessary documents and our passports, and return to the window expecting a smooth process.
We are naifs. We are fools.
The guy scans our applications, then asks for my student ID. Oh crap. "I left it in the US." "I cannot process this without your ID. How do I know you are truly a student," he asks. "Why would I lie about that?" I respond. He says nothing regarding the proof of Lia's "Teacher" status.
He hands my forms and passport back to me. I'm freaking out a little inside at this point, but maintain my calm.
Lia saves the day. She pipes up and says "we're traveling together; I can't go if he can't get a visa." His resolve wavers, and he takes my forms back.
We see him filling out a receipt form, and i get hopeful.
He stamps lia's application documents. I'm getting very hopeful.
He stares at my forms. He inks the stamp. My certainty peeks through the clouds. He stares at my forms. His stamp-laden hand hovers over my forms, the pulls away.
My heart sinks.
He re-inks the stamp! My hope swells. His hand again hovers over my forms, seems to dip down as if to stamp them . . . then retreats.
My heart sinks to my shoes. "i'm not gonna get it, I think.
Lia leans over the counter in her tanktop (not sure if this is intentional, but i LOVE this girl regardless).
He stamps the forms.
HE STAMPS THE FORMS!!!!
Success!
The guy shows up at about 10.
A crowd of 6 people have gathered by this point. The crowd does not respect the idea of a "line." A small Malaysian woman pushes in front of us. An Indian man does the same, but gives way when I pipe up and inform him of our 1-hour wait.
We fill out the forms, get copies of the necessary documents and our passports, and return to the window expecting a smooth process.
We are naifs. We are fools.
The guy scans our applications, then asks for my student ID. Oh crap. "I left it in the US." "I cannot process this without your ID. How do I know you are truly a student," he asks. "Why would I lie about that?" I respond. He says nothing regarding the proof of Lia's "Teacher" status.
He hands my forms and passport back to me. I'm freaking out a little inside at this point, but maintain my calm.
Lia saves the day. She pipes up and says "we're traveling together; I can't go if he can't get a visa." His resolve wavers, and he takes my forms back.
We see him filling out a receipt form, and i get hopeful.
He stamps lia's application documents. I'm getting very hopeful.
He stares at my forms. He inks the stamp. My certainty peeks through the clouds. He stares at my forms. His stamp-laden hand hovers over my forms, the pulls away.
My heart sinks.
He re-inks the stamp! My hope swells. His hand again hovers over my forms, seems to dip down as if to stamp them . . . then retreats.
My heart sinks to my shoes. "i'm not gonna get it, I think.
Lia leans over the counter in her tanktop (not sure if this is intentional, but i LOVE this girl regardless).
He stamps the forms.
HE STAMPS THE FORMS!!!!
Success!
Monday, October 12, 2009
Thoughts from Singapore
1: We have inconveniently sized feet: we must have spent a combined ~10 hours searching for shoes in the Land of the Mall (more on that to come), and came away with a total of 1 pair each. Matt couldn't find any flip-flops wide enough for his stupid American feet; Lia's footsize is too popular and all the good shoes were sold out.
2: Singapore's Metro is the Future: seriously, people, why can't America figure out a subway system that's clean, efficent, quiet, and cheap? The subways here are silent, immaculately clean, run at least every 10 minutes, and cover the entire city. It's phenomenal.
3: Zoos without fences are scary: maybe it's just us overreacting to the whole "Tiger escapes from SF zoo" fiasco last year, but when a 600 pound White Tiger steps to the edge of his moat-encircled enclosure, stares you in the eye, and looks like he's gonna make the leap, your confidence in the zoo designers' calculations regarding the necessary moat width can't help but be somewhat shaken.
4: Pao / Pau is the universal food: We've had them in Thailand, Malaysia, and now Singapore. Steamed rice buns stuffed with various delicious meats are our go-to snack/meal.
5: The English may not actually deserve to be mocked for High Tea: nevermind that it cost the equivalent of 3 days of my travel budget, High Tea at the Tiffen Room of the Raffles hotel was totally worth it.
6: Malls will break your spirit: Even the most ardent anti-shopper (Matt) will eventually cave and buy things he probably doesn't need (but those polo shirts are totally cute on me and SO cheap!), and even the most dedicated bargain hunter (Lia) has her limits (haven't we already been to this one? they all looks the same). Singapore is basically one massive system of interconnected malls. We spent an entire day walking, to the point that our feet and legs cried out for mercy, and basically never saw the light of day because you can travel from mall-to-mall without ever leaving the comfort of their air-conditioned confines and underground walkways. Also, how many Guchi, Fendi, Dolce & Gabana, Rolex, Tag, and Zara branches can this city really need? I'm pretty sure whatever the answer is, they've got at least double that.
7: We're ready to be "Travelers" again: I'll admit that both of us were feeling the stress of squat toilets, suspect drinking water, questionable accomodations, cockroaches, and the other little "perks" that make traveling such a joy. Singapore, though, has swung the pendulum back the other way. We're poor. We're well rested. We're ready to get back on the road.
2: Singapore's Metro is the Future: seriously, people, why can't America figure out a subway system that's clean, efficent, quiet, and cheap? The subways here are silent, immaculately clean, run at least every 10 minutes, and cover the entire city. It's phenomenal.
3: Zoos without fences are scary: maybe it's just us overreacting to the whole "Tiger escapes from SF zoo" fiasco last year, but when a 600 pound White Tiger steps to the edge of his moat-encircled enclosure, stares you in the eye, and looks like he's gonna make the leap, your confidence in the zoo designers' calculations regarding the necessary moat width can't help but be somewhat shaken.
4: Pao / Pau is the universal food: We've had them in Thailand, Malaysia, and now Singapore. Steamed rice buns stuffed with various delicious meats are our go-to snack/meal.
5: The English may not actually deserve to be mocked for High Tea: nevermind that it cost the equivalent of 3 days of my travel budget, High Tea at the Tiffen Room of the Raffles hotel was totally worth it.
6: Malls will break your spirit: Even the most ardent anti-shopper (Matt) will eventually cave and buy things he probably doesn't need (but those polo shirts are totally cute on me and SO cheap!), and even the most dedicated bargain hunter (Lia) has her limits (haven't we already been to this one? they all looks the same). Singapore is basically one massive system of interconnected malls. We spent an entire day walking, to the point that our feet and legs cried out for mercy, and basically never saw the light of day because you can travel from mall-to-mall without ever leaving the comfort of their air-conditioned confines and underground walkways. Also, how many Guchi, Fendi, Dolce & Gabana, Rolex, Tag, and Zara branches can this city really need? I'm pretty sure whatever the answer is, they've got at least double that.
7: We're ready to be "Travelers" again: I'll admit that both of us were feeling the stress of squat toilets, suspect drinking water, questionable accomodations, cockroaches, and the other little "perks" that make traveling such a joy. Singapore, though, has swung the pendulum back the other way. We're poor. We're well rested. We're ready to get back on the road.
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
Who has the biggest nose in Borneo?
No...not me. It's the proboscis monkey! They are quite possibly my new favorite primate (after the orangutan, which we also saw in the wild!) Check out that schnozz...pretty impressive. And these monkeys are not small, either - a rather beefy male's nose is quite the site. Apparently, it attracts the ladies! So all is not lost, big nosed readers. All is not lost.
Yesterday, at the proboscis monkey sanctuary in Labuk Bay, Borneo, we were able to witness some of their strangely human like behavior. Also, the proboscis is nicknamed the "red rocket"monkey....see if you can figure that one out, folks. Yes, that's right.
The monkeys were completely wild but sauntered in in their family groups for a chance at some extra food, provided by the sanctuary. It was quite the site to see...the giant male hustling in his 20 or so wives with their babies, and the sad little group of bachelors watching jealously from afar.
We were also lucky enough to see some silver leaf (aka creepy gremlin) monkeys that decided to join in the fun...
Today we leave the jungle of Borneo for the more cosmopolitan Singapore...to see the same animals we saw here in the wild, in a zoo.
Pictures of monkeys are coming once we get to Singapore - internet on Borneo generally sucks.
Yesterday, at the proboscis monkey sanctuary in Labuk Bay, Borneo, we were able to witness some of their strangely human like behavior. Also, the proboscis is nicknamed the "red rocket"monkey....see if you can figure that one out, folks. Yes, that's right.
The monkeys were completely wild but sauntered in in their family groups for a chance at some extra food, provided by the sanctuary. It was quite the site to see...the giant male hustling in his 20 or so wives with their babies, and the sad little group of bachelors watching jealously from afar.
We were also lucky enough to see some silver leaf (aka creepy gremlin) monkeys that decided to join in the fun...
Today we leave the jungle of Borneo for the more cosmopolitan Singapore...to see the same animals we saw here in the wild, in a zoo.
Pictures of monkeys are coming once we get to Singapore - internet on Borneo generally sucks.
Friday, October 2, 2009
a beautiful trash heap.
That is kinda what Mabul Island amounts to. Actually, that's unfair - it's extremely beautiful, but it is also dirty. An island off the coast of Borneo that you can walk around in 30 minutes and houses 2000 people living in fishing villages, is what it is. And what does that lead to? Trash, everywhere. The local kids play with it, fashioning boats of of styrofoam and paddling around naked, but mostly, it's just in heaps outside the huts. But, on an island, where else is there to put it?
Not, however, on the neatly combed beach of our hotel (it's not a resort without AC or any beer besides Stella, or where the classiest drink special is a liter of rum with a bottle of coke for $11).
Matt got his SCUBA certification in the world class reefs and I lounged on the beach taking advantage of the drink special, occasionally, stepping out into the ocean and hanging out with the resident sea turtles.
So, despite the trash, there was also beauty. Which I suppose is how it is everywhere.
Not, however, on the neatly combed beach of our hotel (it's not a resort without AC or any beer besides Stella, or where the classiest drink special is a liter of rum with a bottle of coke for $11).
Matt got his SCUBA certification in the world class reefs and I lounged on the beach taking advantage of the drink special, occasionally, stepping out into the ocean and hanging out with the resident sea turtles.
So, despite the trash, there was also beauty. Which I suppose is how it is everywhere.
Saturday, September 26, 2009
Pad Thai, Massage, and Elephants. and Buddhas.
Tomorrow, we head out of Thailand and into Malaysia and the wilderness of Borneo.
Thailand has been an interesting and certainly dichotomous place to visit. There are Western restaurants next to hole in the wall, no English menu ones. There are Buddhists who would not kill an ant, and there are people who abuse Elephants to make money. There are areas where there are more farang than Thai people, and there are areas where we were certainly out of place. We have certainly enjoyed our time here, but we're ready to move on. One can only get so many $4 1 hour massages, after all.
Elephants are truly the symbol of Thailand, but in another strange contradiction, are dying out. As a proper goodbye to Thailand, we spent the day at the Elephant Nature Park, where a woman named Lek has made a sanctuary for abused and out of work elephants. The elephants she rescues come and live happily and work-free. There are 30 elephants (including 3 babies!) on a small piece of land.
It was a truly incredible experience. We fed them buckets of bananas, we bathed them in the river, we got wet vacuum suction strength kisses from them, we played tug of war, and we ran from them when they got scary. It was an amazing experience, one, just like elephants, we will never forget.
So, we say goodbye for now to Thailand, and on to new adventures in country #3....
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
Matt's skewer is a...
In the picture below, since so many people wanted to know, matt is holding a squid on a skewer that was grilled. Then he ate it.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Who rides a scooter in Thailand?
The answer is: everyone. Old ladies wearing flowery dresses and stockings ride them. Twelve year old kids in school uniforms ride them. Working girls in suits ride them. And yes, we ride them. Well, Matt drives, and I ride. Better that way.
Motorbikes are a way of life in Thailand...they are easier to come by than any other form of transportation. Some people wear helmets, some don't (we wear the full face mask kind. Clearly the safest). Some people drive fast (not many) and some people drive really really slow (we're in the middle somewhere).
But the best part about having a motorbike in Thailand is the freedom to see and do what you want to see and do, off the beaten path. Chiang Rai isn't a touristy area to begin with, but once you get out of town, it becomes a completely off the beaten path experience. Because of our glorious and strangely powerful 125 cc Honda Wave, we have seen a temple that is completely white, covered in glittering mirrors. We have been on mountain roads that look down on terraced rice paddies (and had to wait for a quite a while due to cow traffic). We have been tea-tasting in the high altitude town of Mae Salong, and climbed 718 steps to a Wat on a hill. We got to go to a 210 foot tall waterfall hidden in national park (the motorbike couldn't quite make the trail, but it almost got us there). We have seen many a misty mountain and thatch hut in the countryside, and dipped our feet in many hot springs.
All because of the Honda Wave. Being on the motorbike makes us feel almost Thai...that and going back to the same pork bun vendor every single day (they are so GOOD). The Thai people value freedom and happiness...exactly what we're getting in these green hills.
Motorbikes are a way of life in Thailand...they are easier to come by than any other form of transportation. Some people wear helmets, some don't (we wear the full face mask kind. Clearly the safest). Some people drive fast (not many) and some people drive really really slow (we're in the middle somewhere).
But the best part about having a motorbike in Thailand is the freedom to see and do what you want to see and do, off the beaten path. Chiang Rai isn't a touristy area to begin with, but once you get out of town, it becomes a completely off the beaten path experience. Because of our glorious and strangely powerful 125 cc Honda Wave, we have seen a temple that is completely white, covered in glittering mirrors. We have been on mountain roads that look down on terraced rice paddies (and had to wait for a quite a while due to cow traffic). We have been tea-tasting in the high altitude town of Mae Salong, and climbed 718 steps to a Wat on a hill. We got to go to a 210 foot tall waterfall hidden in national park (the motorbike couldn't quite make the trail, but it almost got us there). We have seen many a misty mountain and thatch hut in the countryside, and dipped our feet in many hot springs.
All because of the Honda Wave. Being on the motorbike makes us feel almost Thai...that and going back to the same pork bun vendor every single day (they are so GOOD). The Thai people value freedom and happiness...exactly what we're getting in these green hills.
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Crickets
I ate one.
It was salty and crunchy, but otherwise unremarkable.
Probably won't be doing that again.
It was salty and crunchy, but otherwise unremarkable.
Probably won't be doing that again.
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Monks are Friendly
The other day, while touring the many wats (temples) of Chiang Mai, we stumbled on a sign that said: "Monk Chat: Come talk to a monk and ask all your questions! Don't just stare and walk away!" Which, of course, is exactly what we had been doing, if not sneaking a picture from afar. We also had been constantly asking each other questions we knew we couldn't answer. For example: "I know there's a big Buddha in each temple, but why are there 8,000 little ones?" OR "What DO monks do all day, anyway?"
So, sheepishly, we approached monk chat and sat ourselves down next to a younger, friendly looking monk in particularly bright orange robes. Here are some of the things we learned:
- monks eat two times a day only. They can eat whatever people give them (they aren't allowed to cook). This could be pizza, or even a Big Mac (our monk's favorite, apparently).
- everyone in Thailand becomes a monk for at least a day. This guy just decided he liked it (and his orange robe)
- monks get up at 4 am to meditate.
- All those 8,000 Buddha's in the temple are gifts from random Thai people trying to secure themselves a good reincarnation.
Chiang Mai is a pretty old city where monks are part of the daily life, and appreciated by all the Thai people. Quite different from America, where religion is not something we typically put on display, and if we do, it's sometimes looked down upon.
We're headed to the countryside for a little jungle relaxation....we'll let you know how it goes.
So, sheepishly, we approached monk chat and sat ourselves down next to a younger, friendly looking monk in particularly bright orange robes. Here are some of the things we learned:
- monks eat two times a day only. They can eat whatever people give them (they aren't allowed to cook). This could be pizza, or even a Big Mac (our monk's favorite, apparently).
- everyone in Thailand becomes a monk for at least a day. This guy just decided he liked it (and his orange robe)
- monks get up at 4 am to meditate.
- All those 8,000 Buddha's in the temple are gifts from random Thai people trying to secure themselves a good reincarnation.
Chiang Mai is a pretty old city where monks are part of the daily life, and appreciated by all the Thai people. Quite different from America, where religion is not something we typically put on display, and if we do, it's sometimes looked down upon.
We're headed to the countryside for a little jungle relaxation....we'll let you know how it goes.
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Just the Facts, Ma'am
For this post, we'll be highlighting the last couple days in Bangkok and Khao Yai national park with a quick list of interesting stats.
Next up: Chiang Mai & northern Thailand, then off to Borneo (SCUBA diving here I come!)
- Elephants seen in the wild: 4
- Bats seen, en masse: ~2,000,000 (seriously)
- Other cool animals seen: Gibbons; macaques; chameleons; giant squirrels/sloths.
- Monks spoken with: 2
- Monks with a strange desire to be photographed with us: 1
- Street food stalls visited: Lia - 0; Matt - 5
- Unpleasant visits to the bathroom: Lia - 0; Matt - 3
- Karoke songs sung with the locals: Lia - 1; Matt - 0
Next up: Chiang Mai & northern Thailand, then off to Borneo (SCUBA diving here I come!)
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Bangkok: Sweaty and Steamy
Good things about Bangkok:
- Thai Massage - $4 an hour = amazing. We enjoyed being turned into a pretzel and stepped on, plus it was extra funny to watch a petite Thai woman man-handle Matt.
- Tuk Tuks - for $3 you can go about anywhere in a crazy motorcycle/car cross-breed. It's crazy, jostling, but really fun. Bonus if yours has disco lights.
- Wats - incredible temples of gold, mirror, tile, Buddha images, and basically super shiny sensory overload.
- Food - You've all had Thai food - but here it's cheaper.
- Markets are everywhere, with every possible thing you can imagine (who wants knock-offs?)
- The crazy "brewery" we went to last night where the entertainment was different singers belting out American tunes dubbed over in Thai. The people were going crazy, dancing, and yes, even vomiting on the table afterwards (don't worry, a waitress was right there to hold a bag for the poor birthday girl). All in all, highly entertaining.
Not so good things about Bangkok:
- The nasty, steamy, thick toxic stew you breathe in every day. It feels like I've smoked for years.
- Getting ripped off. We've have to be constantly on our guard. Now that we can see it coming, it's become rather amusing...
SO I guess that means Bangkok has been a positive experience. We'll be back a few times, but for tomorrow, we are heading to Khao Yai National Park...
- Thai Massage - $4 an hour = amazing. We enjoyed being turned into a pretzel and stepped on, plus it was extra funny to watch a petite Thai woman man-handle Matt.
- Tuk Tuks - for $3 you can go about anywhere in a crazy motorcycle/car cross-breed. It's crazy, jostling, but really fun. Bonus if yours has disco lights.
- Wats - incredible temples of gold, mirror, tile, Buddha images, and basically super shiny sensory overload.
- Food - You've all had Thai food - but here it's cheaper.
- Markets are everywhere, with every possible thing you can imagine (who wants knock-offs?)
- The crazy "brewery" we went to last night where the entertainment was different singers belting out American tunes dubbed over in Thai. The people were going crazy, dancing, and yes, even vomiting on the table afterwards (don't worry, a waitress was right there to hold a bag for the poor birthday girl). All in all, highly entertaining.
Not so good things about Bangkok:
- The nasty, steamy, thick toxic stew you breathe in every day. It feels like I've smoked for years.
- Getting ripped off. We've have to be constantly on our guard. Now that we can see it coming, it's become rather amusing...
SO I guess that means Bangkok has been a positive experience. We'll be back a few times, but for tomorrow, we are heading to Khao Yai National Park...
Friday, September 4, 2009
Thursday, September 3, 2009
We (were) on a boat, yo!
Or, rather, a junk. We were on a junk (which doesn't sound that cool but looks awesome.
We have just returned from Halong Bay, only the most beautiful place in the whole world. That might have been a judgement made under the influence of a few Bia Ha Noi, however, it was pretty incredible. Plus, we were on a junk!
Activities taking place on or near the junk included:
*Eating lots of squid
* Eating lots of shrimp.
* Drinking beer
* Kayaking in Halong Bay
* Seeing a monkey (and yelling at the kids who were messing with it)
* Going in a crazy crazy cave and seeing many rock formations (Our guide said, "See - see the cheek-en? There is a cheek-en there. See? The cheek-en")
* Jumping off the junk into the dark ocean (terrifying)
* Swimming in the warmest ocean water ever.
And again, we slept on the junk - and showered in a shoilette, which is awesome and strangley liberating. The picture is from the mouth of the cave overlooking the bay (which is huge and endless and filled with giant, looming, rocks). Plus, peep the junk in the left hand corner. That's our junk.
Sunday, August 30, 2009
note on staying alive in Hanoi
Even though it seems right, even though your instincts are telling you to run, even though your heart is pounding and you think your seconds are numbered, do not, DO NOT run across the street.
How to Cross the Street in Hanoi:
* Step out. Look both ways (one way streets mean nothing)
* Disregard the green walk signs (red lights mean absolutely nothing)
* Begin to slowly walk across
* Do not run
* Do not make sudden movements
If you can do these things, which completely go against most peoples' instincts, and resembles the real life version of Frogger, you will stay alive in Hanoi.
How to Cross the Street in Hanoi:
* Step out. Look both ways (one way streets mean nothing)
* Disregard the green walk signs (red lights mean absolutely nothing)
* Begin to slowly walk across
* Do not run
* Do not make sudden movements
If you can do these things, which completely go against most peoples' instincts, and resembles the real life version of Frogger, you will stay alive in Hanoi.
Over Uncle Ho's Dead Body We Will!
Eventful morning, starting with a very exciting moto-taxi ride out to see Ho Chi Minh's preserved body laid to rest in his mausoleum. We negotiated a solid $10,000 dong off price (a whopping ~$0.60), but I was so impressed with our drivers' utter disdain for red lights that I ended up paying the price they demanded initially. Important note when viewing Uncle Ho's body: you WILL show him the proper respect. This means pants covering your knees, shirts covering your shoulders, and absolutely no talking or smiling as you shuffle past.
All right, truth be told the mausoleum was closed today (my faith in Lonely Planet is on the wane), but those rules are legit and the moto-taxi ride was exciting enough on it's own to justify the 5km walk back to our hotel.
Other highlights include helping to lift a motorcycle off it's driver and an resulting awkward silence as he nursed his crushed leg and I stood around ineffectually asking if he was alright in a language he clearly didn't understand; and having a Bia Hoi (watery beer for $0.16) on the street last night.
All right, truth be told the mausoleum was closed today (my faith in Lonely Planet is on the wane), but those rules are legit and the moto-taxi ride was exciting enough on it's own to justify the 5km walk back to our hotel.
Other highlights include helping to lift a motorcycle off it's driver and an resulting awkward silence as he nursed his crushed leg and I stood around ineffectually asking if he was alright in a language he clearly didn't understand; and having a Bia Hoi (watery beer for $0.16) on the street last night.
Friday, August 28, 2009
Good Morning, Vietnam.
Arriving to a new country at night is a bizarre experience. Everything is hitting you at once - the thick, intensely hot air, new smells, new (loud) sounds - but the sights escape you.
Even stranger is waking up the next morning and being in this new place, almost as though you were transported there Star Trek style. Hanoi greeted us this morning with air conditioning (thank you, Alex McCauley) and then again with hot, humid air, traffic consisting almost entirely of motor bikes, breezes, giant spiky fruits, bustling markets, live eels, roasted pork in tofu buns, silk clothing, bamboo, fake Chaco sandals (I told you mom!), lots of people wearing fake Chaco sandals, "French" style cafes, people that never seem to sweat, and much more.
I like Hanoi - I think we'll stay a while.
Even stranger is waking up the next morning and being in this new place, almost as though you were transported there Star Trek style. Hanoi greeted us this morning with air conditioning (thank you, Alex McCauley) and then again with hot, humid air, traffic consisting almost entirely of motor bikes, breezes, giant spiky fruits, bustling markets, live eels, roasted pork in tofu buns, silk clothing, bamboo, fake Chaco sandals (I told you mom!), lots of people wearing fake Chaco sandals, "French" style cafes, people that never seem to sweat, and much more.
I like Hanoi - I think we'll stay a while.
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
4, 7, 2.
We will be in Southeast Asia for four months. We hope to see and explore seven different countries. Matt is bringing two pairs of underwear and two pairs of socks. Can he do it? Even though it is superspecial $18 underwear, and moisture-wicking biking socks, will he make it? Or will he be forced to buy Vietnamese made normal underwear right from the source?
Either way, we leave on Thursday morning for Hanoi, and reading this blog will be your best bet in keeping up with our adventures (and our undergarments) in Southeast Asia. We hope you will check in every once in a while to see what we're up to, what weird stuff we're eating, and what cool things we've seen.
In case you were wondering, I, Lia, am bringing 14 pairs of underwear and am happy with my choice.
Either way, we leave on Thursday morning for Hanoi, and reading this blog will be your best bet in keeping up with our adventures (and our undergarments) in Southeast Asia. We hope you will check in every once in a while to see what we're up to, what weird stuff we're eating, and what cool things we've seen.
In case you were wondering, I, Lia, am bringing 14 pairs of underwear and am happy with my choice.
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