pictures!

We promised a few pictures of our recent adventures, so here you go: Sunset over Angkor Wat, Angkor Wat in the morning, the tree-covered ruins of Ta Phrom, Lia spinning a prayer wheel at a Chinese Buddhist temple in Singapore, the Probocis monkey of Borneo (replete with his ridiculous nose), and our ridiculous view from our hotel on Tioman Island in Malaysia.

Cambodia., remembering.

Cambodia, despite being a 1.5 hour flight from Malaysia, is worlds apart. It's dirtier, more hectic, poorer, more vibrant, but also sadder.

The first night we were here, I became convinced that our guesthouse was haunted. Earlier, in Thailand, I read a book called "First They Killed My Father," and as is evident from the title, it was a real tear jerker. But really, I cried. A lot.

And when we got to Phnom Penh, and into our guesthouse that looks like it was probably the residence of a wealthy family here before the Khmer Rouge's takeover, I couldn't help but feel their presence. In the morning I was sheepish - I don't believe in ghosts! But I couldn't shake it. The memory of the war and brutality is palpable.

It probably didn't help that we went to the Tuol Streng prison museum later that day. I have never seen a place that so blatantly highlights the darkest side of humanity; I could feel it.

Walking around the streets, it's easy to see the remnants of a brutal past here - the amputees, the poverty, the dilapidated buildings. Anyone over 30 has memories of the war. And yet, people smile, they are friendly, they are trying to move on. Inspiring and heart-wrenching all at the same time.

To country #5...

Cambodia!

Look for a picture post from us in the next few days...from big noses in Borneo to a picture perfect paradise island, we've got some good stuff to show off :)

The Burma Visa Saga

After failing to obtain our Burma visas in Singapore and being informed that the process is quicker in Kuala Lumpur (shout-out to Jake Izenberg!), Lia and I arrived at the Burma/Myanmar embassy in KL at 8:30am, thinking the embassy opened at 9. Turns out the embassy "opens" at 9:30.

The guy shows up at about 10.

A crowd of 6 people have gathered by this point. The crowd does not respect the idea of a "line." A small Malaysian woman pushes in front of us. An Indian man does the same, but gives way when I pipe up and inform him of our 1-hour wait.

We fill out the forms, get copies of the necessary documents and our passports, and return to the window expecting a smooth process.

We are naifs. We are fools.

The guy scans our applications, then asks for my student ID. Oh crap. "I left it in the US." "I cannot process this without your ID. How do I know you are truly a student," he asks. "Why would I lie about that?" I respond. He says nothing regarding the proof of Lia's "Teacher" status.

He hands my forms and passport back to me. I'm freaking out a little inside at this point, but maintain my calm.

Lia saves the day. She pipes up and says "we're traveling together; I can't go if he can't get a visa." His resolve wavers, and he takes my forms back.

We see him filling out a receipt form, and i get hopeful.

He stamps lia's application documents. I'm getting very hopeful.

He stares at my forms. He inks the stamp. My certainty peeks through the clouds. He stares at my forms. His stamp-laden hand hovers over my forms, the pulls away.

My heart sinks.

He re-inks the stamp! My hope swells. His hand again hovers over my forms, seems to dip down as if to stamp them . . . then retreats.

My heart sinks to my shoes. "i'm not gonna get it, I think.

Lia leans over the counter in her tanktop (not sure if this is intentional, but i LOVE this girl regardless).

He stamps the forms.

HE STAMPS THE FORMS!!!!

Success!

Thoughts from Singapore

1: We have inconveniently sized feet: we must have spent a combined ~10 hours searching for shoes in the Land of the Mall (more on that to come), and came away with a total of 1 pair each. Matt couldn't find any flip-flops wide enough for his stupid American feet; Lia's footsize is too popular and all the good shoes were sold out.

2: Singapore's Metro is the Future: seriously, people, why can't America figure out a subway system that's clean, efficent, quiet, and cheap? The subways here are silent, immaculately clean, run at least every 10 minutes, and cover the entire city. It's phenomenal.

3: Zoos without fences are scary: maybe it's just us overreacting to the whole "Tiger escapes from SF zoo" fiasco last year, but when a 600 pound White Tiger steps to the edge of his moat-encircled enclosure, stares you in the eye, and looks like he's gonna make the leap, your confidence in the zoo designers' calculations regarding the necessary moat width can't help but be somewhat shaken.

4: Pao / Pau is the universal food: We've had them in Thailand, Malaysia, and now Singapore. Steamed rice buns stuffed with various delicious meats are our go-to snack/meal.

5: The English may not actually deserve to be mocked for High Tea: nevermind that it cost the equivalent of 3 days of my travel budget, High Tea at the Tiffen Room of the Raffles hotel was totally worth it.

6: Malls will break your spirit: Even the most ardent anti-shopper (Matt) will eventually cave and buy things he probably doesn't need (but those polo shirts are totally cute on me and SO cheap!), and even the most dedicated bargain hunter (Lia) has her limits (haven't we already been to this one? they all looks the same). Singapore is basically one massive system of interconnected malls. We spent an entire day walking, to the point that our feet and legs cried out for mercy, and basically never saw the light of day because you can travel from mall-to-mall without ever leaving the comfort of their air-conditioned confines and underground walkways. Also, how many Guchi, Fendi, Dolce & Gabana, Rolex, Tag, and Zara branches can this city really need? I'm pretty sure whatever the answer is, they've got at least double that.

7: We're ready to be "Travelers" again: I'll admit that both of us were feeling the stress of squat toilets, suspect drinking water, questionable accomodations, cockroaches, and the other little "perks" that make traveling such a joy. Singapore, though, has swung the pendulum back the other way. We're poor. We're well rested. We're ready to get back on the road.

Who has the biggest nose in Borneo?

No...not me. It's the proboscis monkey! They are quite possibly my new favorite primate (after the orangutan, which we also saw in the wild!) Check out that schnozz...pretty impressive. And these monkeys are not small, either - a rather beefy male's nose is quite the site. Apparently, it attracts the ladies! So all is not lost, big nosed readers. All is not lost.

Yesterday, at the proboscis monkey sanctuary in Labuk Bay, Borneo, we were able to witness some of their strangely human like behavior. Also, the proboscis is nicknamed the "red rocket"monkey....see if you can figure that one out, folks. Yes, that's right.

The monkeys were completely wild but sauntered in in their family groups for a chance at some extra food, provided by the sanctuary. It was quite the site to see...the giant male hustling in his 20 or so wives with their babies, and the sad little group of bachelors watching jealously from afar.

We were also lucky enough to see some silver leaf (aka creepy gremlin) monkeys that decided to join in the fun...

Today we leave the jungle of Borneo for the more cosmopolitan Singapore...to see the same animals we saw here in the wild, in a zoo.

Pictures of monkeys are coming once we get to Singapore - internet on Borneo generally sucks.

a beautiful trash heap.

That is kinda what Mabul Island amounts to. Actually, that's unfair - it's extremely beautiful, but it is also dirty. An island off the coast of Borneo that you can walk around in 30 minutes and houses 2000 people living in fishing villages, is what it is. And what does that lead to? Trash, everywhere. The local kids play with it, fashioning boats of of styrofoam and paddling around naked, but mostly, it's just in heaps outside the huts. But, on an island, where else is there to put it?

Not, however, on the neatly combed beach of our hotel (it's not a resort without AC or any beer besides Stella, or where the classiest drink special is a liter of rum with a bottle of coke for $11).

Matt got his SCUBA certification in the world class reefs and I lounged on the beach taking advantage of the drink special, occasionally, stepping out into the ocean and hanging out with the resident sea turtles.

So, despite the trash, there was also beauty. Which I suppose is how it is everywhere.